Perú, mystic land

We heard lots of things about Peru.

It was one of the trips that I was planning for a long time before I finally decided to go. Peru is one of those countries that you hear lots of beautiful things about and you get completely amazed with its culture and ancient Inca remains once you discover it.

We started our trip in Cusco, city of “conquistadores” where Hernan Cortés and Francisco de Pizarro discovered a very colorful and diverse culture. We had flown from Madrid into Lima and then straight to Cusco without thinking too much about how the altitude sickness would affect us. When we arrived in Cusco Airport it was noon time and we could feel the rush of taxi drivers, tour dealers and people flocking around like hens in a shed.

Cusco doesn't seem very interesting when you first see it, lots of unfinished little houses and sheds spread all over the surrounding mountains, but I think you don't have to let yourself get confused by this idea.

We got a taxi and drove to the center. We had a very good driver who told us about the history of the city and showed us different spots.

You can appreciate the colonial touch clearly visible in the architecture mixed with the Inca remains which are still in use to build houses on the top of their old solid walls.

These walls are protected by law and are still in use because they offer a safe and good base for building, offering extremely resistant foundations.

The Plaza de Armas (Main Square) is an interesting place packed with restaurants that offer local and international cuisine. The little streets take you to markets, churches and “casonas” that take you back in time. The Spanish influence on the Andino culture is very strong and evident in every single detail of the city.

We decided to stay one night in Cusco before heading to Machu Picchu so we could explore the night life of the city.

After sunset the city is magical. The historic center and surrounding mountains transforms into a sea of tiny red and bluish lights from the houses and people go out to the bars and restaurants.

The center of the town reminds me of the Gothic Area in Barcelona.

After that night in Cusco, we packed our stuff and left to Machu Picchu. The trip was quite an adventure itself as we had to go to a little town called Ollantaytambo by bus, then take a train through the mountains to Aguas Calientes, a village at the bottom of the sanctuary of Machu Picchu, and finally a bus to go up to the Inca Sanctuary.

We stayed one night in Aguas Calientes to explore what the village can offer. Backpacker’s hostels, restaurants, a market of handcrafted products and an Spa with small saunas. That is all. The purpose to stay in Aguas Calientes was going up to the sanctuary early in the morning to enjoy the sunrise, as it is one of the most spectacular views, if you are lucky enough to get a clear morning.

As we could see the next day, we were not lucky. It was very foggy and a bit rainy but we still wanted to go to a place called Gate of the Sun to enjoy the views.

When we arrived to the location the fog was so intense that we had to wait for a few hours to clear.

It was worth it.

When the fog cleared, a beautiful view of the Inca city of Machu Picchu appeared between the mountains, a privileged location and one of the most beautiful landscapes that I’ve ever seen in my life.

Mike and Jordi were very impressed and we watched the view with admiration.

There is no clear evidence of the real purpose of Machu Picchu but the most accepted theories talk about religious and sacred location, an Inca economic capital or even houses for high society members.

Whatever reason they had it is clear that they had built the city in a very special location.

After a few hours running around the ruins and visiting the temple we decided to go back to Cusco and spend another night there so we could relax and recover from the trip.

The next day we left Cusco to our next destination, Puno and Lake Titicaca.

This time the trip was longer and we had to take a bus.

After seven hours driving through the plains and mountains we arrived to Puno. We found a hotel, checked in and we went out to explore the city. Puno is located at the shores of Lake Titicaca. The historic center is very small but has lots of different things to do such as visiting the main church, eating in restaurants, walk on different shopping streets and relax in trendy coffee shops.

In the night the city is full of life. We explored the streets and markets.

The groceries market is a fantastic place to taste the exotic fruits and vegetables that are produced in Peru, and also buying some pop corn. But this pop corn is different. They are produced from the big corns that grow in the country.

Pop corn started as a snack originally in Peru about 6,700 years ago and probably for ceremonial purposes. There is scientific evidence that Peruvians used to cook popcorn with hot stones and then used for rituals and social events, then this snack was exported everywhere else through the years.

The local people in Puno are very friendly and helpful and it was very interesting to see the Andino Community and other people interact.

Next morning Jordi decided to visit the artificial islands of Lake Titicaca where communities live on islands made of floating reeds and called Uros.

This group of 44 islands were made with the purpose of defense. As communities were attacked they started to build their own islands on the lake. Each island can take up to a year to be made by compressing and piling up straws and reeds.

While Jordi was exploring the Uros Islands, Mike and I went for a walk around the town visiting different districts and local shops and colonial buildings.

The next day we decided to travel to Copacabana, a little town situated on the other side of the border with Bolivia. We stayed the night there with the intention of visiting the Island of the Sun the next day.

Our visit was quite short. Next morning we traveled to the Island of the Sun to see the views and remains of the Inca culture.

This small island on Lake Titicaca is part of a small group of islands. Tradition says that the main ones, Islands of the Sun and the Moon, have the meaning for the old Incas of being the place where the Sun was born.

After the visit, we returned to Puno and stayed another night before heading to Arequipa.

Next day we traveled to Arequipa by bus. We arrived after a seven hours journey. The city is situated at the bottom of the El Misti volcano, and close to the deepest canyon on the northern hemisphere.

On our arrival we were received by our friend Alexander and his family. Alexander is Peruvian and his family owns a farm where they produce milk and other products.

Their hospitality made us stay three full days in Arequipa as Alexander’s mother insisted we should see the city properly and from a local point of view.

Arequipa is a vibrant city with a strong cultural heritage. During the three days we stayed in the city we visited local restaurants and had the opportunity to learn about the history that made the city as it is. Arequipa is in the middle of the way between Lima, the old administrative capital of the Spanish Empire, and the rest of Latin America. It was a resting location for traders and Spanish merchants who traveled with goods and valuables after they paid the taxes in Lima so they could take them to other locations in South America. Religious and other people from all walks of life settled in Arequipa and started a city where the travelers could stop to rest. Now days it is the second largest city in Peru and it is located in one of the most active seismic and volcanic activity locations in South America.

The second day we decided to visit the Convent of Santa Catalina, a small town itself where nuns used to live confined in a small and quite perimeter with their own streets.

It is also worth visiting the restaurants and little markets spread all over the city.

After the third day of frenetic activities and visits we decided to fly to our last destination in Peru, Lima.

Alexander and his family marked our experience in Peru as we had the chance to live the Peruvian lifestyle from a local perspective.

One hour and ten minutes flight separates Lima from Arequipa. As soon as we arrived, we headed to Miraflores, an area situated South from Lima and next to Barranco, an amazing location with views to the Pacific Ocean.

After checking in a hotel, we went out to explore the neighborhood and we left the city center for the next day after resting when we would be taken around by a friend who lives in Lima.

Miraflores is one of the most touristic places in the capital, quite safe and also interesting for shopping and wondering around and very close to the neighborhood of Barranco, and both places are ideal for staying at boutique hotels, fine dine and visit museums and galleries such as MATE Gallery, Mario Testino’s own gallery.

We decided to stay the last three days of the trip in Lima so we could discover and see what the city has to offer.

Lima is an exciting and modern metropolis with lots of activities and places to visit. Very colonial and well preserved despite the earthquakes that punish the city frequently. The Plaza de Armas and the central cathedral with its catacombs full of bones and skulls offer a rather macabre but interesting visit.

After the city center it is interesting to see the area of Barranco, home for artists and bohemian style people. The seafront is very spectacular and also a nice view for those who enjoy the Ocean.

Lima was the last place to visit in this trip. There is no doubt that you need more than two weeks to see all the stuff Peru has to offer, an amazing country where mysticism and modern trends merge in a fusion of cultures from the Old and New Continents.

                                                        © Juan Manuel Abad Fernandez